Useful Information for Island Peak Climbing | Imja Tse

Island Peak (6189m) is a famous trekking peak located in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Island Peak is also known as Imja Tse locally. The peak appeals anyone who is interested in a Himalayan adventure that offers technical peak climbing opportunity. The peak is also special because Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa used it to train themselves before climbing Everest in 1953. Still, many climbers use it as a training peak as the skill required for climbing Everest and Island Peak are similar. Climbing Island Peak gives you the excitement of summiting a Himalayan peak and  an opportunity to experience the unique flora and fauna of Sagarmatha National Park, culturally rich villages of Sherpas, highland monasteries etc.  From the summit of Island Peak, you can enjoy the incredible views of Mt. Everest (8488m), Mt. Lhotse (8501m), Mt. Makalu (8475m), Mt. Nuptse (7879m), Mt. Baruntse (7129 m), Mt. Amadablam (6812 m) and Mt. Cho Oyo (8188m).

Island Peak Climbing Outline Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival Day in Kathmandu (1400m)

Day 02: Sightseeing of Kathmandu Valley (1400m) and Trek preparation day

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m) – 40 mins &trek to Phakding (2610m) – 3 hours

Day 04: Trek from Phakding (2610m) to Namche (3440m) – 5/6 hours

Day 05: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3860m) – 5/6 hours

Day 07: Trek from Tengboche to Pheriche (4240m) – 4/5 hours

Day 08: Trek from Pheriche to Lobuche (4910m) – 4/5 hours

Day 09: Trek from Lobuche to EBC (5364m) via Gorakshep (5140m) – 4/5 hours

Day 10: Trek Gorakshep to Kalapathar (5550m) & to Dingboche (4240m) – 6/7 hours

Day 11: Trek from Dingboche to Chhukung (4730m)– 3 hours

Day 12: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp (5150m) – 4/5 hours

Day 13: Trek from Base Camp to High camp (5600m) – 4/5 hours

Day 14: Island Peak Summit (6198m) & back to Base Camp (5150m) – 4/5 hours

Day 15: Trek from Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche (3950m) – 6/7 hours

Day 16: Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m) – 6/7 hours

Day 17: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2840m) – 5/6 hours

Day 18: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 19: Free day in Kathmandu; Evening Farewell Dinner

Day 20: Departure from Kathmandu

Permits required for Island Peak:

Permit is a necessary and essential document issued by Nepal Government or any authorized body. It specially authorizes a climber to attempt a peak or route. It is illegal to climb any peak without permit. For Island Peak Climbing, you need to take three permits – Sagarmatha National Park, Local Permit and Peak Climbing Permit.

• Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit – It is required to enter Sagarmatha National Park. You can get the permit at Nepal Tourism Board office, Bhrikutimandap or at the entry point in Monjo.
• NPR 3000 per person (foreigners)
• Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit – It is a local permit issued by the Local Government to enter the area. You can get it at Lukla.
• NPR 2000 per person (foreigners)
• Island Peak Climbing Permit – It is issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The fee of the Permit depends upon the season you choose to climb.
• Spring – USD 250 (foreigners)
• Autumn – USD 125 (foreigners)
• Summer & Winter – USD 70 (foreigners)

NOTE: A garbage deposit fee of US $500 is required to pay to NMA to get the climbing permit. You will get the refunds later as per the NMA provisions.

Best Season for Climbing Islan Peak

Among the four seasons, the best time to climb is Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September – October). Summer/Monsoon and Winter are considered off-seasons.

Spring is the best and most favorable season for climbers. The weather is stable and dry. Spring is marked with warmer days. The hills get covered with blooming rhododendrons. The weather is also stable offering you clear and spectacular views of the mountains. The chance of snowfall is less and you can enjoy nature at its best. Autumn is another preferred season. The season shares similar features with Spring. The weather is dry and stable and the visibility is great. But the weather is chillier compared to Spring and it gets colder and colder as days pass (so Spring is preferred more for climbing whereas Autumn is preferred more for trekking).

Winter season is off-season, due to unfavorable climatic condition. This season is the driest and coldest. There will be thick snowfall and the path becomes difficult to navigate due to thick snow and freezing cold. During Summer/Monsoon, the weather is unpredictable. It gets hot and humid and rains a lot with poor visibility. There is also high chance of landslides and floods.

Physical Fitness required for Imja Tse Climb:

Island Peak is considered to be moderately challenging and can be attempted by people with little or no mountaineering experience. However, it is a high altitude adventure in extreme terrain. So, it is important to remember that physical fitness is required. Weeks of regular exercise to boost you stamina and endurance power is required prior to the adventure. Every human body is different and how your body adapts to the altitude and new environment is different. So, besides being physically fit, you should also take care of your mental wellbeing to enjoy the whole experience fully.

Guides & Porters:

It is difficult to climb peak without the help of guides and porters. Without guides and porters, NMA will not give you the permission for peak climbing. Guides and porters are an important part of climbing. Climbing peak is a technical activity and while climbing you need to learn different techniques. Guides will train you to use ropes and other climbing gears properly. They will also show you the routes and help you in emergency. Porters will help you to carry your bags and support materials while climbing.

Accommodation during Climbing

During the trek, you will accommodate in local lodges or tea houses. They will provide you comfortable rooms on twin sharing basis and there won’t be attached bathroom in most of the cases. Since there won’t be any heater or spare blanket normally, we suggest you to bring a sleeping bag to keep your body warm. Once you reach the base camp, you will stay in tented camps.

Food & Water

During trekking, you will eat at lodges and tea houses. You have the option of modest range of Nepali, Continental and Tibetan food. During climbing days, your food will be prepared by your team. You don’t need to worry about food and water as you will be provided plenty of healthy food and water during your trip. But you should remember that you have to eat and drink properly to gain the required energy. As you gain altitude, you may lose appetite, but you have to push yourself as keeping yourself well nourished and hydrated is really important. You should drink about 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will help you to acclimatize properly.

Communication

During the trek, you will find internet services at lodges but you have to pay some extra charges. You can use NTC and NCELL mobile and network services. They work properly in lower altitudes but tend to have weaker connection as you climb higher. Everest Link is more popular nowadays in Everest region as it has good signal strength in higher altitude as well.

Electricity

Electricity is available throughout the trail. But you can’t get it lavishly. For charging your device, you can get the facility in lodges and tea houses with some extra charge. So, it’s better to bring your own power bank.

Clothing and Gears required for Island Peak Summit

Proper clothing and gears ensure the success of your trip. You need to pack all the things which are necessary for you. The recommended list is:

Equipment’s:

• Rope
• Ice axe
• Crampons
• Harness
• Screw gate
• Climbing boots
• Trekking pole

Clothing & Gears

• Headscarf
• Sunglasses
• Headlamp
• Polypropylene shirts (1 half sleeve and 2 long sleeves)
• Light and expedition weight thermal tops
• Fleece wind-stopper jacket or pullover
• Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
• Down vest and/or jacket
• Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable
• Hiking shorts, trousers
• Lightweight thermal bottoms
• Fleece or woolen trousers
• Waterproof shell pants, breathable fabric
• Socks
• Gloves
• Sleeping bag etc.